New Beer: Urthel Saisonnière

I'm lucky enough to live in a one of the country's leading Belgian beer markets* but it was still a nice surprise to walk into Abe's Cold Beer and find one of Belgium's newest brews. It comes from Urthel, which also makes the monumentally tasty Urthel Hop-It and Hibernus Quentum. The Flemish outfit is young by European standards - only brewing since 2000 - but they know how to cook up a tasty beverage. Check this out:

Urthel Saisonnière
De Leyerth Brouwerijen (Urthel)
Saison / Farmhouse Ale | 6.00% ABV

A- / 4.25
look: 5 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | drink: 4.5

This beer is gorgeous. It poured a brilliant clear gold with a big, tall head. As I drink it down, there's a perfect web of thick lacing. Thankfully, the beer character delivers as well. The flavors holds a floral and spicy mix of coriander, pepper, lemon, while there's a mild toasty note from the malt. This saison is complex enough that you could sip it for hours, yet light and lively enough that you can easily enjoy a few. Check this fine Belgian out.

*According to me.

I'll only say it once: I miss Belgium.

A year ago I was in Belgium. I'm not saying I haven't had a lovely weekend, I'm just not in Belgium.

Belgian Nightmares

With the local cyclocross scene finished for the year, talk among my cycling friends has turned to the Spring Classics, which begin in a little less than two months. For some of the lucky few of us who visited Belgium for the week of De Ronde, Gent-Wevelgem, and Paris-Roubaix, the thrill of the upcoming races is cut by the ache of being on the wrong side of the Atlantic. Still, there's enough memories and evidence to keep me happy for a few years before I'll really need to return.

One afternoon still haunts me through all the great beer I drank and happy miles I cycled. On the Tuesday before Gent-Wevelgem, I rode out to Wevelgem with Bill and Pryor on a mission to visit the Westvleteren monastery cafe - literally holy ground for beer and the home of the world's best beer.

I'd checked the website for hours and dates they were closed, but I missed that before Easter they were closed an entire week. Not only was my pilgrimage met with locked doors (see picture, right), but they were closed for the extent on my time in Belgium.

The grim discovery of my malted and hopped holy grail being closed stung, the beer gods soon smiled upon me. Later that week while overtaking our friendly tour guide Jan's home town of Retie - a town only described to us as, "you are in Retie, you must drink beer" - I told my sad-sack story to an sympathetic bar owner. With a slight smile he nodded and simply told me to return later that evening.

The owner talked to his bartender, who called his brother-in-law, who then brought in a bottle of Westvleteren 10, the best beer in the world. I was floored by the generosity as much as I was by beer's sweet taste. It was, without trying to pump up the hyperbole, heavenly nectar from godly people.

Yes, I'll never forget that those monks took a week off for Easter (so selfish, really). But like just about every beer or bike-related story I know from Belgium, there was eventually a very happy ending.

Post-Belgium: Man it was delicious

Anyways, here are a few of my favorite beers from the trip.


Saison De L'Epeautre
Brasserie de Blaugies
Saison / Farmhouse Ale

A- / 4.1
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4.5 | drink: 4.5

Picked up a 375 cl at the Hopduvel in Ghent. The cashier asked me where I found this beer. I guess its not a popular option, but it should be. My first reaction was that it was like Saison Dupont, but thin I realized it also have creamy vanilla flavors and notes like Duvel. Damn, this beer is good. It was a bit of a foamer when I took the cork out, but once settled it has an appropriate carbonation level and is easy drinking. This is a perfect example of a lower alcohol saison. Drink this if you can find it.


Bracia
Thornbridge Hall Country House Brewing Company
American Double / Imperial Stout

A- / 4.2
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4 | drink: 4

The honey and hazelnuts are obvious in the aroma and flavor. While chocolate roast and cocoa dominate the flavor. Yum Appears pitch black with a milk chocolate head. There's a long, espresso aftertaste. Hot damn, this is good beer. There's a paler malt notes that pop up in the aftertaste, but there's a whole lot of roasted malt going on that dives into roast chestnuts, honey, and spicy British hops. Delicious.


Oude Gueuze
Hanssens Artisanaal bvba
Gueuze

A- / 4.25
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4.5 | drink: 4

Had a bottle in Ghent and was quite pleased. Poured a hazy amber gold and thick white head. The big character here is the toasted oak barrel flavor. After that is more of typical (of great oude guezes) ripping sour tang that hits the back of your cheekbones with lemon, lime, and earthy spice. Delicious. I'll have another.


Oude Kriek De Cam
De Cam Geuzestekerij
Lambic - Fruit

A / 4.3
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4.5 | drink: 4.5

Ordered a bottle at the Waterhuis in Ghent. Damn, this might be the best kriek I've ever had. Not overly funky, but interesting and with a long, dry sour cherry flavor. It's a pleasant mustiness, that for whatever reason reminds me of cobwebs and cellars before the tangy cherries kick in. Definitely find this beer if you're in Belgium.


Sussex Best Bitter
Harvey & Son Ltd.
English Bitter

A- / 4.1
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4.5 | drink: 4.5

Had a half pint on cask at The Harp near Trafalgar Square. This was one of my favorite real ales while in London for a week. It was a mixture of floral hops and oak with a fruit punch aroma at first. Then I started to pull cherry juice flavor with dry wheat cracker in the background and a note of blueberry in the aroma. Delicious.

Day Ten: The End (And Paris-Roubaix... Go Tommeke!)

Tailgating Paris-Roubaix starts at breakfast.


I want to kiss the cobbles. We were at sector 3.


Ready for the riders.


The second place finisher, Potazzo, and a fan. They were so f'ing fast.


Watching the finish with the Tom Boonen fan club.


Boonen's grandparenters were there to toast his victory.


Pryor gets the official last beer (for now) of the trip.

Day Nine: Rocking Retie

"You are in Retie. You must drink beer."
Retie is our tour guide Jan's hometown, and near Tom "Beans" Boonen's.


Before leaving Ghent I finally went in the cathedral across the street. It was big and stuff.


Jan from Ridley took us for a ride in his hood.


Kuklix took a nap while the band played on.


Pomosomething2 won't be fooled by any card tricks.

Day Eight: A Beautiful Day in Hell

Ready to ride with the Russian pro team Katusha. Moments before, Danilo Napolitano did a wheelie for us.


We rode half of Paris-Roubaixs (Hell of the North) and started at Arenberg.


Hanging on with Katusha after a few sections of cobbles.


And then the Italian pro team Liquigas rode by.


A perfect day to ride Roubaix. We left it all on the cobbles.


Pryor takes an amazing win at the Roubaix velodrome.

Day Seven: Belgium Talks Back

Local cheese shop. I got the local special, the Gentse Blue, a creamy blue cheese. Yum.


Street band rocking out with TWO accordions.


Afternoon ride along the canal south of Ghent.


The best store in the world.


You tell 'em, Belgium.


Working on life's tough decisions.

Day Six: Belgium Gets Weird

Amanda's Leffe while we watch Gent-Wevelgem in a cycling pub.


Ryan doing his thing with the frites during a rain break.


Belgium likes to rock out with it's cock out in parks.


This is a bar. We had two rounds here. Try to guess where we sat.


The cathedral next to our hotel.

Day Five: In Our Wheelhouse

Our for a morning ride. Look closely and you can see Ryan's tri-color "Belgian neck spoiler."


The monks at St. Sixtus were closed for the Easter holiday already, but the nearby town of Watou offering plenty of amazing local beers.


Mario Cipollini decided to join us tonight.


Taylor and our new friend outside the, how do you say... "dude bar."


Yeah. Kuklix.

Day Four: Ridley Bikes Factory Tour

Awesome Ridley Noah in the Italian colors.


Taylor at Dulle Griet, standing below Jesus.


Last stop of the night. This place looked like it was 500 years old, and probably was.

Day Three: Tour of Flanders

Hanging out at the VIP area before the start. We were all over the team buses.


Bar stop before the second cobbled section of the race. That's the publican's dining room in the room behind the bar.


Our boy, Big George Hincapie, going over the Koppenberg.



Champagne outside the Katyusha bus. Their man, Filippo Pozzato, took 5th.

Day Two: Tour of Flanders Ride

Setting up for the day between a couple farms.


Entering one of the first cobbled sections.


Boxes of waffles at the rest stops.

Day One: Not sleeping and exploring Ghent

No place in particular today. Every cafe we stopped by had some good beer. I was pleased.


Ghent at night.