Catching Up on MN Craft Beer

I was back home in Minneapolis for a wedding last weekend and had my work cut out for me. I'd once grumbled over the slow growth of the Minnesota craft beer scene, though there was no lack of good beer, as I watched the east and west coasts bubble with new breweries. No more.

Over my four nights I only scratched the surface of new brews, mostly catching up on the recent, but not brand new, breweries. While I had my fill of Surly, Lift Bridge, and Steel Toe, I couldn't get my hands on a pint of Badger Hill or Boom Island. Alas. Next time.

Anyways, here are the highlights from my trip. Damn there was a lot of good beer.

Irish Coffee Stout
Lift Bridge Brewery
Milk / Sweet Stout | 8.00% ABV

4.1/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | overall: 4.5

Split a bottle with a friend, though I wouldn't have minded having it all to myself. So it's a decent strong milk stout by itself, but the coffee and whisky add delicously mild complements to the smooth, roasty stout. Most coffee stout don't show so much restraint, often taking over the beer. Likewise with the whisky barrel character, I didn't even taste it until the beer started to warm up. Once obvious, I was tasting a smooth, spicy vanilla. Not on the thick side for the strength, though a great sipper. Glad I got to try this beer.


SYX
Surly Brewing Company
American Strong Ale | 14.50% ABV

4.1/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | overall: 4.5

Yup, that's a strong beer. Oddly, there was a clear sour funk when the beer was fresh off the tap and faded as it warmed. It tasted like a younger sourness, and, I suspect, could make this beer really interesting in a couple years.

This is a thick, fruity beer with a dry funky edge. I get apricot, marmalade, and tangerine up front and then a more toasty fresh oak barrel kick and wood astringency (not too much, just a touch). It's understandably thick for the strength, and well-balanced by the hops. It's a very good beer as is, but I think in a 12-24 months it could be great.


Sommer Vice
Steel Toe Brewing
Hefeweizen | 5.00% ABV

4/5
look: 4 | smell: 3.5 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | overall: 4.5

Had a pint at Republic on 7 Corners. Huh, reminds me of the old Summit Hefe (which I really enjoyed), as it's a crisp, spicy wheat beer with no fruity character. The clove almost tastes singed, and the dry toasty wheat and barley provide a great balance to the phenol spices. It's eas-drinking and quite refreshing on a hot day.


Lost Trout
Third Street Brewhouse
American Brown Ale | 4.90% ABV

3.95/5
look: 4 | smell: 3.5 | taste: 4 | feel: 4.5 | overall: 4

I don't often take notice of brown ale, but this has big cocoa and roasted barley flavors without too thick a body, like so many American browns. It's not sweet and fruity like an English, but also not as bitter as many craft browns. It's just a smooth, clean mix of dark grains that's appropriate in any weather. Check it out. Another fine beer from Third Street. It's great to see the folks in Cold Springs making solid beer.

New Summer Craft Beer

It's been a damn sweaty summer. Thank God there's been good beer to match. I haven't been terribly excited about summer seasonal beers in years past, but craft brewers are finally coming around to building interesting, complex blond ales and wheat beers that are more than sweetish crowd pleasers.

Schmetterling Gose
Local Option
Gose | 4.50% ABV

4.05/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4.5 | overall: 4

Had a snifter at Brouwerij Lane in Greenpoint Brooklyn. Ah, so fresh, so refreshing. The aroma was a sharp mix of sour rose and berries with a big hit of fresh-baked bread. The toasty malt steps back a bit in the flavor and a mix of salty spices (with coriander) comes with with the pleasantly sour (gentler than a lambic) earthy fruit (almost like fruit skin) through the finish. I don't get a big salty taste or feeling, so I'd say it's well balanced. The body is on the lighter side, as I said, very refreshing. Check this beer out if you can. Easily the best gose I've had.


Somersault
New Belgium Brewing
American Blonde Ale | 5.20% ABV

3.88/5
look: 3.5 | smell: 3.5 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | overall: 4

Picked up a six-pack while in OBX, seemed like a good beach beer. It was. Instead of the clean, bland blond ales you usually meet in the summer, this had a lovely mix of mild citrus hops and grapefruit sourness (not bitterness) that adds an extra-refreshing edge. The aroma has a mix of freshly toasted bread/malt and light apricot fruit. Overall, a great take on the style. I'm glad to see brewers finally figuring out how to make a fun and satisfying blond ale.


Summer Ale
Summit Brewing Company
Kölsch | 4.90% ABV

4.05/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4.5 | overall: 4

Mmm. Reminds me a bit of Summit's Kolsch from a couple summers back. The slight earthy mineral note is subdued, but there's still a wonderfully subtle character of bready malts, mellow citrus hops, and light fruit esters. Complex, yet drinkable, what a fine beer. It opens with fresh-baked bread and finishes with a dry grassy bitterness. I'll have another.


Apollo
Sixpoint
Kristalweizen | 5.20% ABV

4.05/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 3.5 | overall: 4.5

Enjoyed a 16 oz can of Apollo, stamped best by Sept 2012. Is this really a kristalweizen? There's no sediment in the can, but the beer is a hazy amber. Either way, it's a fine wheat beer that reminds me of Weihenstephaner's hefe for the subtle, but rich, spicy clove yeast character. Slightly fruity (banana and orange) bread balance the phenols. The carbonation is a little lighter here, but instead of feeling heavier, it smooths the beer out. Great beer, best wheat beer in a can, maybe.

Bucket List Beers: Moonlight Brewing

I spent a little time drinking in San Francisco, which offered a couple bucket-list beers from Moonlight Brewing Co.

Moonlight, a small craft brewer in Santa Rosa, has been quietly producing a couple of the best American-made lagers for years. Unlike most breweries their age (21 this year), they've never made any major expansions, never bottled, and rarely leave the Bay area. I was lucky enough to find their two most vaunted beers, Reality Czech (#1 Czech Pilsener on BeerAdvocate) and Death & Taxes (#1 Euro Dark Lager).

The Reality Czech was an excellent pilsner, but not the best I've had. Maybe this minor disappoint (really, it's tasty and worth trying) was what kept me from keeping notes on it. Death & Taxes, however, blew me away. After ordering a pint for myself, I insisted on a pitcher for the table. Nobody was disappointed.

Death & Taxes Black Beer
Moonlight Brewing Company
Euro Dark Lager | 5.00% ABV

4.38/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4.5 | overall: 4.5

I'm always a fan of the style, seeking out new (at least to me) examples, and this is the best I've had. It has the agreeable drinkability of your standard dark lager or schwarzbier, but the depth of a great Baltic porter. There were fruity, cherry tones at times, and then dry toffee and cocoa with an interesting cola edge. I'm so impressed by how many, clean distinct (and delicious) dark malt flavors are crammed into this lager. Go find this beer. You need it.

Craft Beer in Tucson, AZ

I had the pleasure of testing bikes in sunny Tuscon for five days recently. Naturally, every great ride is followed by great beer, so here are a few of my favorites from the trip. One highlight in particular was SanTan's Devil's Ale. I'm not easily impressed by pale ales, but this was thoroughly satisfying and hoppy without coming off too heavy. An easy summary is that's it's a more drinkable Dale's Pale Ale.

Devil's Ale
SanTan Brewing Co.
American Pale Ale (APA) | 5.50% ABV

4/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | overall: 4

Poured a tall, white head over an orange body. I'm reminded of Dale's Pale Ale, but this is a bit more drinkable—not as thick. The aroma has a subtle floral touch and then there's still a big rich grapefruit citrus flavor with a grassy edge. The hops don't have a super sharp dry-hop edge, the the flavor rolls nicely through the bitter fruit character with a mild dry, bready toffee malt note in the finish. This is a great pale ale for a hot day, check it out.

Barrio Tucson Blonde
Barrio Brewing Company
American Blonde Ale | 4.53% ABV

3.55/5
look: 3.5 | smell: 3.5 | taste: 3.5 | feel: 4 | overall: 3.5

On-tap at Noble Hops in Tucson. It's a clean blonde, but I was hoping this would be closer to Chelsea's Checker Cab Blonde, which has a nice clean bready character. Tucson Blonde was clean, no flaws, but the barley and citrus hops were very mild. Yes, the beer was refreshing and not too light, but I'd have wanted more flavor.

Kilt Lifter Scottish Style Ale
Four Peaks Brewing
Scottish Ale | 6.00% ABV

3.68/5
look: 4 | smell: 3.5 | taste: 3.5 | feel: 4 | overall: 4

Kilt Lifter is just a nice, clean Scottish ale with mild caramel and a touch of roast. The aroma, like the flavor, is all malt, but with more of a bready bent to it. The softer caramel taste rolls over your tongue with a lighter carbonation and a very slight herbal, earthy edge. I wouldn't call it peaty, but it's close. Worth a try.

HopShock IPA
SanTan Brewing Co.
American IPA | 7.10% ABV

3.95/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4 | feel: 3.5 | overall: 4

HopShock poured a hazy orange with a white head and lacing as I drank it down. The aroma has a mix of citrus melon and light floral hops with a very slight earthy note. The flavor is balanced by dry toffee malts that provide a quiet backbone to the biting citrus rind flavor and dry finish. The bitterness could be bigger and the hops could be deeper, but it's a very solid IPA. Certainly a great canned option.

Midnight ELF Black Ale (AKA Black IPA, Cascadian Dark Ale)

Inspired by the Summit Black Ale I enjoyed over the holidays, I put together my own black ale recipe with Summit's key ingredient, Briess Midnight Wheat, and a couple of my favorite American hop varieties. Tonight I transferred to secondary and got my first taste.

As intended, the Midnight Wheat bring the color and flavor of roasted barley, but without the bitter edge. I thought initially my 6 ounces of high-alpha hops would be enough, but if I get a chance I may swing by Keystone Homebrew for a couple more ounces to dry hop.

I should also mention the 95 IBU number seems ridiculous. The beer tasted and felt more like a ~65 IBU ale.

Size: 5.5 gallons
Color: ~29 SRM
Bitterness: 95 IBU
OG: 1.056
FG: 1.010

Alcohol: 5.9% v/v (4.7% w/w)

Grains:
6 lb. Light dry malt extract
1 lb. American crystal 40L
4 oz. American chocolate
8 oz. Roasted barley

Hops:
1 oz. Simcoe (12.2% AA, 60 min.)
1 oz. Chinook (11.8% AA, 30 min.)
1 oz. Simcoe (12.2% AA, 15 min.)
1 oz. Chinook (11.8% AA, 5 min.)
1 oz. Chinook (flame out)
1 oz. Simcoe (flame out)

Yeast: Wyeast 1056 American Ale

Worst Beers of 2011

Brewers make better beer when customers demand it. So in the interest of constructive criticism, I present the five worst beers I had the pleasure of reviewing last year. You can see my top beers of 2011 here, but here are the most offensive brews I encountered in '11.

Palma Louca Pale Pilsner
Cervejaria Kaiser
German Pilsener | 4.50% ABV

1.95/5
look: 3.5 | smell: 2.5 | taste: 1.5 | feel: 2 | overall: 2

I hope nobody is seriously calling this mess a German pilsner. I don't usually walk away from a beer, but I left nearly half of this at the bar. This tasted like well water with lemon cookie ground up and mixed in. Yes, the body was watery. No, it wasn't refreshing or pleasant. Steer clear.


Lvivske 1715
Lvivska Pivovarnya (BBH)
Euro Pale Lager | 4.00% ABV

2.17/5
look: 4 | smell: 3 | taste: 1.5 | feel: 3 | overall: 2

I dont think is headed anywhere but the drain. It smells like a very light lager with a soft pale malt aroma, but the flavor is dominated by a sweet white grape juice taste. What the hell happened here? The Ukraine can have this one back.

I mean, if you're really into grape juice, this is your beer. If you're looking for a decent lawnmower lager, run.


Riserva
Weyerbacher Brewing Co.
American Wild Ale | 11.40% ABV

2.28/5
look: 3.5 | smell: 2.5 | taste: 2 | feel: 3 | overall: 2

2010 Batch. I went to Abe's Cold Beer looking for a sour and this seemed like a good option. However upon opening, it was clear this beer wasn't going to stand up to previous reviews. There was a strongly acidic earthy garden tang. Not quite of rotting produce or horseblanket, but very unpleasant. The raspberry element was quite good and nicely balanced against the level of the funk. The sour character needs work, or at least a lot more time. I didn't bother to finish the bottle. It's not the pleasant, zesty flavors and aromas you'd expect in a framboise or lambic sour ale.


Alexander Keith's Nova Scotia Style Pale Ale
Alexander Keith's
American Pale Ale (APA) | 5.40% ABV

2.5/5
look: 3.5 | smell: 2.5 | taste: 2.5 | feel: 2 | overall: 2.5

I have to assume this beer is no way shape or form represents the pale ales of Nova Scotia. Otherwise, it implies the island has never heard of hops. For a cheap amber ale, the beer isn't bad - with only a hint of macro character. There's a basic caramel malt and bread crust taste and maybe, just maybe the slightest touch of earthy hops.


Terrapin So Fresh & So Green Green
Terrapin Beer Company
American IPA | 6.60% ABV

2.63/5
look: 4 | smell: 3 | taste: 2.5 | feel: 3 | overall: 2

Had a pint at Liberty St. Tavern and didn't bother finishing the glass. It wasn't very hoppy and there was a strong, vaguely cheesy off flavor. Has this been sitting out too long, maybe with an infection run a muck? There was a little smooth ester character and a touch of grapefruit, but not much. Watch out for this landmine.

Best Beer in Burlington VT

I joined friends in Burlington over the MLK weekend for a few days of skiing, ice cream, cheese, and craft beer. The full day at Stowe was a treat, but the real highlight was easy access to Heady Topper, Hill Farmstead, and Lawson's Finest Liquids. I also swung by the Vermont Pub & Brewery and the Zero Gravity Brewery, which are both must-drink brewpubs. I had few complaints about the Vermont craft beer scene, so I'll just share my favorites:


Twilight Of The Idols
Hill Farmstead Brewery
American Porter | 7.50% ABV

4.33/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4 | overall: 4.5

Had a glass at the Farmhouse in Burlington VT. Damn, that's a porter. The coffee and vanilla are wonderfully blended into the beer. So many coffee porters and stouts go too heavy on the java, and even get a stale taste. This beer takes a great cup of joe, adds a dash of subtle vanilla, and still brings a great porter. The malt brough a dark, chocolate character with a sharp roasted edge that's balanced by the sweet vanilla. The beer is formidable, but never too heavy. Find this porter.


Everett Robust Porter
Hill Farmstead Brewery
American Porter | 7.50% ABV

4.33/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4 | overall: 4.5

On-tap at the Reservoir in Waterbury, VT. This is a hell of a porter. The body is thick, like a robust porter should be, but is a pleasure to sip (though you don't have to). In addition to a big mix of cocoa and mocha grains, there are clear notes of maple syrup, molasses, and smoke. Damn, this is good. It goes above and beyond what a good porter tastes like.


Double Sunshine IPA
Lawson's Finest Liquids
American Double / Imperial IPA | 8.00% ABV

4.28/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4.5 | overall: 4

On-tap at the Reservoir in Waterbury, VT. Stopped by with friends for dinner on the way back from Stowe, and damn this hit the spot. The body is on the lighter side for the style, which I prefer, and the hop character is heavy on floral citrus, with an earthy undertone. The hops vary between fruity and juicy to a more herbal lemon, with a hit of spice. Damn tasty overall. Very hoppy, but I could enjoy a few glasses. You should.


Trapp Golden Helles Lager
The Brewery at Trapp Family Lodge
Munich Helles Lager | 4.80% ABV

4.2/5
look: 4 | smell: 4.5 | taste: 4 | feel: 4 | overall: 4.5

Had a pint at the Farm House in Burlington VT. Damn, it's hard to ask for much more from a helles. There's a crisp dry Brady malt character in the aroma with a little balance of spicy hops. There's mild lager fruit over the malt, but it's not sweet. Otherwise it's clean and super drinkable. Find this beer.


Heady Topper
The Alchemist
American Double / Imperial IPA | 8.00% ABV

4.47/5
look: 4 | smell: 4 | taste: 4.5 | feel: 4.5 | overall: 5

Picked up a couple six-pack at the cannery. I'm told they were packaged just a week ago.

I wasn't sure what to make of this beer at first, which says a lot because DIPAs aren't usually a surprising style with a lot of leeway. It's most easily described as "hop juice," not an IPA. The balance of hops is unique in that the flavor is huge, but it's never over the top, where overly-hoppy beers become perfumey messes (I'm thinking of Weyerbacher's Hop Explosion).

The aroma has a clean and clear floral grapefruit character with an earthy, citrus seed edge—think about when you're eating an orange and you get a seed on your tongue. The flavor is intense but manageable. In addition to the vivid grapefruit and orange peel citrus, there's a vague grassiness, tropical notes, and an odd (and thoroughly unexpected) touch of barbeque sauce that fades as the beer warms.

I approached this beer as a skeptic, but it's easily one of the most complex beers I've tried, and one of the most drinkable at that. I should have bought a case.